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 Rhododendrons
History
Rhododendrons are found in the wild in almost every corner of the world. Their natural habitat is that of the shrub layer of forests and woodland. The last official estimate recorded in excess of 10,000 different hybrids from over 800 species.
Siting and Cultivation
With their dark green glossy foliage rhododendrons need some protection from the mid day sun. They are very hardy against the cold and will tolerate almost any site. Flowers can be susceptible to late frosts.
Soil Type
Rhododendrons are “ericaceous” meaning that they are lime haters. Rhododendrons must be planted in lime free soil with Ericaceous planting compost (note: most of the soil in the immediate are to Pacific is lime free but please ask a member of staff if you have any doubts).
In Containers
Rhododendrons make wonderful container plants. The all year round colour provided by the splendid foliage together with the spring flowers can contribute to any patio, courtyard or terrace. Remember to plant in lime free compost, ensure good drainage and avoid new stone pots as these often have a high lime content. The lower growing dwarf and Yakushimanum types are particularly good.
Feeding and Watering
Feed with a Rhododendron specialist food (please ask in the shop). Feed may be sprinkled over the surface when the flower buds start to swell in the spring and then again after flowering. A high potash feed such as Tomorite in the early autumn will help generate more bud development. If planted in neutral pH soils then a regular application of an ericaceous feed will help prevent yellowing of the leaves. It is important that rhododendrons do not dry out if in containers, this is particularly the case when plants are holding flower buds.
Pruning
Rhododendrons are easy to prune BUT this must be done as soon as the flowers are starting to drop. This will allow the plant enough time to regrow and to produce flower buds for the forthcoming spring. Late pruning will prevent flower buds from developing.
Pests and Disease
Rhododendrons suffer from few problems. The honey dew deposits left by aphids or scale insect may leave a sooty deposit. Either remove bugs by hand or spray with one of the many insecticides on offer (please ask in the shop).
Associated Plants
Rhododendrons may be planted by themselves as specimens or with other lime hating plants. Camellias, Pieris, Heathers, Acers and Magnolias all like the same growing conditions spring and autumn. Underplant with spring flowering bulbs.
Camellias
History
Camellias are a native plant to Japan where they were cultivated by wealthy landowners and Buddhist monks. By the early 17th century a book illustrated over 600 different cultivars.
Siting and Cultivation
With their dark green glossy foliage camellias need some protection from the mid-day sun. A combination of sun and wind on frozen plants in the winter is particularly damaging to the emerging flower buds so avoid cold north and west facing sites.
Soil Type
Camellias are “ericaceous”, meaning that they are lime haters. Camellias must be planted in lime free soil, we recommend Westland Ericaceous Compost. (Note: most of the soil in the immediate area to Pacific is lime free but please ask a member of staff if you have any doubts).
In Containers
Camellias make wonderful container plants. The all year around colour provided by the splendid glossy foliage together with the spring flowers can contribute to any patio, courtyard or terrace. Remember to plant in lime free compost, ensure good drainage and avoid new stone pots as these often have a high lime content.
Feeding and Watering
Feed with a Rhododendron specialist food (please ask in the shop). Feed may be sprinkled over the surface when the flower buds start to swell in the spring and then again after flowering. A high potash feed such as Tomorite in the early autumn will help generate more bud development. If planted in neutral pH soils then a regular application of an ericaceous feed will help prevent yellowing of the leaves. It is important that camellias do not dry out if in containers, this is particularly the case when plants are holding flower buds.
Pruning
Camellias are easy to prune BUT this must be done as soon as the flowers are starting to drop. This will allow the plant enough time to regrow and to produce flower buds for the forthcoming spring.
Pests and Disease
Camellias suffer from few problems. The honeydew deposits left by aphids or scale insect may leave a sooty deposit. Either remove bugs by hand or spray with one of the many insecticides on offer (please ask in the shop).
Associated Plants
Camellias may be planted by themselves as specimens or with other lime hating plants. The early flowering camellias may be followed by Pieris, Rhododendrons, Azaleas, a specimen Acer will give contrasting leaf colour in the spring and autumn. Under plant with spring flowering bulbs and a selection of heathers.
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